Providence’s Seaplane Diner gets great review

The Seaplane Diner, just after the stainless steel was uncovered
but before it reacquired bright blue flex-glass stripes.
2002 photo copyright Larry Cultrera

I got a heads-up the other day from Denise Bass that there would be a review of the Seaplane Diner in the food section of the Providence Journal (RI) on Thursday. So I checked it out online yesterday at It turned out to be a great review. I know anytime I have been there it was always a good experience. In fact the last time I ate there was back in the spring of 2007.

I had just revisited the Culinary Arts Museum at Johnson & Wales University with my brother Steve. Dick Gutman, the Director of the Museum and author of American Diner Then & Now and the Images of America book – The Worcester Lunch Car Company, showed us a couple of things that were not on display at that time.  When we left the Museum it was lunch time and the Seaplane Diner is conveniently located a mile or so down the street, so it was a no-brainer.

I don’t recall what Steve ordered but I know he enjoyed it. I believe I ordered an Italian Sausage sub sandwich and I also was happy with my selection as well. Anyway, here is the text of the article by Gail Ciampa, Journal Food Editor……

Dining Out: Nostalgia’s on the menu at the Seaplane Diner

 01:00 AM EDT on Thursday, August 28, 2008
France can have its bistros and Italy its trattorias. America will always have its diners. Rhode Island is blessed with several fine ones, including the Seaplane Diner. Here the food is all comforting and familiar (eggs, pancakes and omelets for breakfast; meatloaf, burgers, fried chicken and roasted turkey for lunch). The prices are a bargain, the atmosphere friendly and the service fast. The Seaplane Diner is the real deal –– a Jerry O’Mahony model car, built in Elizabeth, N.J., in 1953. Small and intimate, it seats 60 people in booths and at counter stools.

I’m sorry to say that I drove by it time and time again and never noticed it there on Allens Avenue in Providence, sandwiched between an auto body shop and a factory building. It was Rachael Ray that made me sit up and take notice. Back in May, crews were shooting footage highlighting Providence for a future episode of her show Rachael Ray’s Tasty Travels on the Food Network. Her lineup for Providence included 13 spots, including: Al Forno, Cuban Revolution, CAV, Geoff’s Superlative Sandwiches, Haven Brothers, Julian’s, La Laiterie at Farmstead, Nicks On Broadway, Olga’s Cup & Saucer, Pastiche, Waterplace Restaurant and 10 Prime Steak and Sushi. I knew all of those and had dined at them. But then I saw the Seaplane name and wondered all about it. No more.

Here I’ve enjoyed blueberry pancakes for breakfast and meatloaf and mashed potatoes. I’ve tried a special of eggplant parmigiana and a mushroom burger and never had room for dessert. The mini-tableside jukeboxes remind me of my childhood and all those family restaurants where we ate things like spaghetti and meatballs. One quarter could secure music throughout the whole meal. At the Seaplane I looked at the lineups from A1 to V7 and saw Elvis’s “Burning Love.” That’s when it came to me: the Seeburg Consolette jukebox was stuck in the ’70s, just like me. No more music would come from its bad speakers, as they are shut down. But it’s still nostalgic to see them there.

The prices are almost stuck in the past, too. A plate of eggs (any style) with toast, home fries and coffee costs $3.50. A short stack of pancakes costs $3. The eggplant parm on a torpedo roll is a $5.95 special with a huge helping of potato salad. My mushroom burger came with more fries than I could eat and was just $5.25. There are free refills of coffee ($1.75) and sodas ($1.50). As I sucked my root beer down to the end, a refill arrived without being requested. Thank you server Stephanie! And a satisfying cup of the homemade soup of the day, chicken with rice, is just $1.75.

The menu features solid home-style favorites, thanks to Oscar Recinos in the kitchen. His is one of those nice restaurant stories. He started working for the original owner, Robert Arena, eight years ago as a dishwasher and worked his way up to chef. Today’s owner, David Penta, raved about his specials, and if the eggplant parm is an example, he’s on the mark. Penta bought the diner five years ago with Arena’s son, Anthony. Bob Arena bought the Seaplane in 1975 and he still works there, cooking two days a week. His recipes are still in use, including the hearty, moist and wonderful meatloaf like mom used to make. His secret: a bit of ketchup added to the meat. It’s served with a good-sized portion of real mashed potatoes and vegetable of the day (carrots one day, zucchini another) and topped with brown gravy ($6.25).

There’s no doubt that meatloaf is the most in-demand item on the menu, but some of the specials should not be ignored. Start with that eggplant parm. The eggplant was crispy and didn’t taste fried, though it was. It was not bitter, often a problem. The sauce had a pleasant balance of sweet and acidic. The dish had a light layer of mozzarella on top and was served on a crispy Italian roll, torpedo style. All the fresh bread comes from Carmine Borelli, who runs Borelli’s Bakery on Charles Street in Providence. The burgers are also served on a nicely prepared roll and mine was yummy with lots of sautéed mushrooms.

Accompanying the eggplant sandwich was a potato salad, a tasty version made with red bliss potatoes, lots of them, with a bit of onion and pepper. The dressing was a blend of mayonnaise and yellow mustard, but just a bit. The texture of the potato was just right — not too hard and not too soft. When I had breakfast a few weeks earlier, I was first surprised at the speed with which my food arrived after ordering. Server Laura agreed that the chef kept no one waiting very long for their meal. Three large blueberry pancakes ($4.50) were topped with butter and powdered sugar and full of fruit. No skimping here. The side of bacon ($2.25) was crisp.

Likewise, the scrambled eggs, well-seasoned home fries and wheat toast of my companion ($3.50) made for a satisfying breakfast. Breakfast is offered, along with sandwiches, for the two late nights the diner opens, Friday and Saturday from 11 p.m. to 4 a.m. Those prices are slightly higher, with breakfast items averaging 50 cents to $1 higher and some sandwiches an additional 25 cents. Still, all the food here is a deal.

Yes, Paris can have its bistros and we’ll take diners like the Seaplane. Berets would be out of place on Allens Avenue anyway.

Bill of fare
A breakfast for two at Seaplane Diner might look like this:
Two eggs…$3.50
Blueberry pancakes…$4.50
Side of bacon…$2.25
Total bill…$15.36

Bill of fare
A lunch for two at Seaplane Diner might look like this:
Eggplant Parm…$5.95
Meatloaf dinner…$6.25
2 sodas…$3.00
Total bill…$19.42

 The Seaplane Diner, 307 Allens Ave., Providence. (401) 941-9547. Very casual. Free parking lot. Three steps to get in –– not wheelchair accessible. Highchairs. AE, D, MC, V. Monday to Friday 5 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Saturday 5 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sunday 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. Also late-night dining Friday and Saturday 11 p.m. to 4 a.m. Breakfast items $1.95 to $7.95; lunch sandwiches $4.75 to $8.75; dinners $6.25 to $8.95; seafood $2.75 to $12.95. Late-night prices for breakfast slightly higher.

New Jersey’s Mack Diner may get new lease on life

All Ears Records (aka Mack Diner) from the 1980’s
copyright Larry Cultrera

The Mack Diner, last operated as All Ears Records store in New Brunswick, NJ has been deteriorating for years. The location it is in is very depressed (and depressing). Ironically, at least on the exterior, this 1941 vintage Fodero diner still looks like it could come back. In fact there was an article from the August 26th “” about the very fact that the structures current owner is in possible negotiations to sell the diner to someone who wants to move it out of state.

Here is the copy of the piece written by Richard Khavkine for …… 

The Mack Diner on French Street in New Brunswick may be moved.
AUGUSTO F. MENEZES / MyCentralJersey

NEW BRUNSWICK —A dormant city fixture could be given a new lease on life. But the Mack Diner, which during its roughly 65 years on French Street has functioned as a grocery store, a record shop and, yes, a diner, might first have to be transplanted.

The stainless steel, aluminum and enamel Art Deco fixture, inoperative since soon after a drug raid put its then-proprietor behind bars in April 2005, has drawn interest from out of state. “He wants to take it away,” said the Mack’s current owner, Tareq Algharaybeh, speaking of a potential buyer he thinks is in Mississippi. “Where I don’t know.”

Flanked by a record shop and a mini market on French between Seaman and Suydam streets, the Mack’s turquoise shell glimpsed daylight recently. Last month, the advertising posters that have for years obscured nearly its entire facade were taken down. For about a week, the words “Mack” and “Diner,” on either side of the brick and aluminum portico tethered to the patina of decades, were again visible.

Within a few days, though, billboards publicizing local concerts and hand-lettered notices advertising rooms for rent again blanketed the prefabricated structure. Inside, what appears to be the diner’s original tile and wood counter teeters against the test of time. But other than the ventilation hoods, stripped of their exhaust fans, little trace remains of the diner’s days and nights as a restaurant.

But Algharaybeh, who bought the diner two years ago, says it is otherwise sturdy. “There’s no leaks,” he said. “It’s nice.” Still, Algharaybeh, who also owns and runs Sam’s Pizza and Chicken two blocks south on French Street, has little use for this period piece. With three years left on the lease for the pizza establishment, Algharaybeh wants to move that business, which he has operated for 20 years at French and Alexander streets, onto the Mack’s lot. “I’m going to move there,” he said recently. “My customers aren’t going anywhere.”

First, though, he needs to find a buyer for the diner, one willing to truck it out. Which wouldn’t be unprecedented. Just over a year ago, for instance, the Moondance Diner, a SoHo landmark for 75 years said to have been the oldest such establishment in New York City, was put on a flatbed truck and moved 2,100 miles to Wyoming. For now, the French Street mainstay’s windows remain boarded up, as they were during the Mack’s last, somewhat productive, venture.

Charles Ewen puts on an Etta James record at the Mack Diner in New Brunswick.

As All Ears’ Records, a clutter-filled shop open irregular hours, the Mack endured, more or less intact, for nearly 30 years. But if All Ears’ Records had the longest run at 150 French St., it also had a most inauspicious end. The Mack’s Mensa-credentialed owner, Charles Ewen, was said to be peddling more than just oldies singles: A nighttime raid by law enforcement on Ewen’s French Street apartment in April 2005 yielded a trove of heroin and cocaine, prescription drugs, loaded handguns and ammunition.

Soon after the raid and Ewen’s subsequent incarceration, the Mack, its Art Deco prime already the stuff of memories, fell further into disrepair. A year or so later, Algharaybeh bought the vintage — but by then decrepit — 1941 diner. While the diner was at one time a “problem property,” city spokesman Bill Bray said the diner has had “no active violations” or open complaints of late.

Built by the famed Fodero Dining Car Company of Newark and, later, Bloomfield, the prefab icon wheeled in to the city sometime in the 1940s. But a short-order cook last served a plate of bacon and eggs over easy at 150 French St. some 40 years ago. Somewhat incongruously, the Mack next had a short tenure as a grocery store of sorts. Ewen bought the Mack eight years after that, in 1976, for $7,250.

Over the next three decades, Ewen, surrounded by eight fish tanks, spun both music and tales inside the Mack. Seems he sold some of the former, too, from a record collection said to have reached in the tens of thousands of discs. One of local law enforcement’s greatest hits from 2005, though, confined the Mack to the dustbin. Or so it might have appeared, since, given time, vintage fashions have a tendency to resurface. Just as Ewen, 63, incarcerated at South Woods State Prison since November 2006, becomes eligible for parole and a new life in October, so might the Mack Diner shake off its stint in purgatory, and gleam again.

New Diner Blog by Spencer Stewart

I became acquainted with Spencer Stewart a few years ago. He was around 14 years old at the time. He emailed me to let me know he was an avid follower of my Diner Hotline column in the Society for Commercial Archeology’s (SCA) Journal magazine. His dad, Michael got him interested in the American Roadside with diners being a big attraction. When I heard his story, I decided to write a small piece in the Hotline about him. Basically, I was happy to see the next generation was already out there appreciating what we grew up with.

Spencer is about to embark on a new journey, he is starting college soon, but I also found out he has started his own Diner blog on WordPress as well! I have put a link to it in my blogroll but I am also putting it here in this post….

Fairfield, Connecticut’s Zemo’s Diner has all it’s ducks in a row, groundbreaking to be in spring of 2009

DeCoven Diner from early 1980’s, copyright Larry Cultrera

I just read an article from today’s Connecticut Post about Gary Zemola’s continuing efforts to open the former DeCoven Diner (from Duncannon, PA) at it’s new home on Duka Avenue just off the U.S. Rte. 1 traffic circle in Fairfield, CT. Zemola, an old friend has been dreaming of opening his own classic diner for close to 20 years. He is currently the owner operator of Fairfield’s Super Duper Weenie, which started out as a mobile hot dog wagon in a converted step van and is now a sit-down/take out restaurant. In the article he is quoted as saying the diner, now in storage is 90% ready to be moved to the new location. He is just putting off things until the spring of next year.

Here is the text of the article by Genevieve Reilly……

OK’d vintage diner on hold in Fairfield

FAIRFIELD — Gary Zemola hasn’t stopped chasing his dream for an old-fashioned diner — he’s just put it on the back burner. Zemola, the owner of Super Duper Weenie on lower Black Rock Turnpike, has all the OKs he needs to open a classic diner on Duka Avenue. Zemo’s Diner will be housed in a portable diner Zemola bought on eBay that was manufactured by the Jerry O’Mahony Diner Co. in 1954.

“As of right now, all the approvals have been met,” Zemola said, though he still needs to get financing for a performance bond. He said he was planning to break ground soon behind Fairfield Lighting and Design, but things have been put on hold due to the economy. “I’d like to break ground in the spring,” he said. “I’ve been wanting to do this for over 20 years.”

The stainless steel diner, which for now sits in storage in Monroe, is being refurbished. “The diner is about 90 percent there,” Zemola said. The mobile diner was used as recently as 2003 in Duncannon, Pa., and was formerly called DeCoven Diner. It includes an original terrazzo (crushed marble) floor and “boomerang Formica” tabletops in booths and counters, according to Zemola.

The 59-seat Zemo’s Diner would be installed on adjacent properties at 63 and 75 Duka Ave., both of which are owned by Frank Zemola, Gary’s father. Frank Zemola also owns the property where Fairfield Lighting and Design is located. Zemola plans to continue operating Super Duper Weenie when the diner is opened.

Meanwhile, across town, the last vestiges of the former Larry’s Diner, also built by the Jerry O’Mahony Diner Co., have quietly been incorporated into a new Miller Street restaurant called 55. The doors from the old diner are part of a second-floor dining room at the new eatery. Larry’s Diner sat on the Post Road for nearly 60 years before it was moved in 1986 to Miller Street. The Post Road property was sold for development as an office building, and the vintage 1927 railroad car diner was sold and relocated a stone’s throw away. It was used as the entrance to a larger restaurant initially known as Larry’s Diner, and later as the Rattlesnake Bar & Grill.

Deadline approaches for saving New Jersey’s Forum Diner

Photo by Michael Perlman

I received an email from Michael Perlman, NYC diner saviour. Michael has helped save the Moondance Diner and Cheyenne Diner and is currently working on lower Manhattan’s Lost Diner (aka Lunch Box Food, Terminal Diner). Another diner he has focused on (we mentioned it a while back) is Paramus, New Jersey’s Forum Diner, a very large colonial/environmental Fodero diner that is threatened with demolition. Here is what his email said…

To The Media:
    I am following up on my press release I sent you in early June (which is below this e-mail), and would appreciate your help by covering this utmost importance preservation issue.
    This is the last call to preserve the historic Forum Diner (211 E State Route 4) via transport, or it will end up “doomed in a landfill.” The Forum Diner is still available for $15,000. Rigger, Mel Brandt, took dimensions, and is cheaper than the majority but proficient. Rigging costs will depend upon where the diner is transported to. The diner contains 3 major sections at 18ft 6in each, and the price is a bargain considering its 15,000 square feet (only $1 per square foot!), and a great business opportunity once it reopens. There are also grants available to help finance the future restoration & renovation work, which I would voluntarily assist any future owner with.

    There has shockingly been a sudden change of plans. The prospective buyer from Upstate NY, who was very interested in purchasing the historic Forum Diner, informed me today that he can’t pursue it due to personal reasons. This was alarmingly close to the deadline for confirming a buyer & rigger. I let down other prospective buyers to date, as a result. I do understand the time constraints of property owner Kevin Ormes (of Jeep 17), but he may give me a 1-month extension for confirming a buyer, which I am praying for. I have begun contacting the remaining few prospective buyers, and have heard back from one in particular. He said he has an interest in the Forum Diner, and would like to work something out with the rigger.    

    The Forum Diner is an architectural gem, and rare for 60s style architecture. It was prefabricated by the Fodero dining Car Co, and was announced that “money was no object” when it came down to detail, shortly after it first opened. Joseph Fodero of Bloomfield, NJ was the mastermind of diner manufacturing (also manufacturing NYC’s famed Empire Diner). The Yannitsadis brothers were the original owners of the Forum Diner. The exterior borrows from the Environmental style, and features stainless steel, wrap-around windows, groovy gold frame doors, corner entryway with stone & colored mansard roof, & decorative ornamentation gracing the top. The interior is elegant, featuring fine Greek wood fluted columns & moldings and coffered wooden-paneled walls (rare for a diner), wood ornamentation, recessed areas for chandeliers, etched mirrors with regal logos, stone, curtains, accoustic paneling, counter & stools with backrests, kitchen out back, carpeting, terrazzo tiles and wave-patterned terrazzo distinguishing circular wooden booth areas. Pat Fodero, son of Joseph Fodero, came up with the idea of circular booths to seat more patrons per table, and it was first popularized at the Forum Diner. The interior portrays the Colonial style.
My photos:
     I would be very grateful if you can feature this update/crucial appeal in your paper. Hopefully, someone will come forward before it’s too late! The public can contact me at Hope to hear from you soon. Thank you!
Michael Perlman
Committee To Save The Forum Diner, Chair

Red Wing Diner of Walpole, Mass. to get new owner

Red Wing Diner of Walpole, Mass. (The way it looks today)
photo circa 2006, copyright by Larry Cultrera

I just read an article from The Daily News Transcript out of Norwood, Massachusetts that an old favorite, the Red Wing Diner will undergo an ownership change soon. Located directly on U.S. Route 1, the Red Wing is a Worcester Lunch Car that is partially visible under some newer siding and another roof.

The siding covers the bottoms of the double-hung windows on either side of the front entry and the right side end wall leaving the upper sections that have orange stained glass visible to the naked eye. The diner is used as a bar with food service and is attached to a large building housing the major portion of the restaurant.

Though not open for breakfast, the diner is open for lunch and dinner and is famous for their Fried “Ipswich” Clams as well as their “pub” style Pizza. I have had the clams (excellent) but have never tried their pizza, someday maybe. The new owner has worked at the diner for 28 years. He has stated in the news article that there will be some changes, mostly cosmetic and not too extreme. Here is the text from the Daily News Transcript article written by Jeb Bobseine….

Old diner getting a new owner, look

WALPOLE —  A 75-year-old Rte. 1 dining institution is getting a renovation and a new owner.

Tuesday night Board of Selectmen approved the transfer of liquor, common victualler’s and entertainment licenses from Red Wing of Walpole, Inc., owned and run by the Campanario family, to Red Wing Diner Inc., to be owned and run by Liam Murphy. The sale is contingent on the payment of all outstanding tax obligations and ensuring the facility meets existing health codes.

Murphy, the current manager, has worked at the restaurant for 28 years, starting out as a busboy when he was 15. He later moved up to cook, manager, and soon, owner of the Red Wing Diner. He lives in Bellingham. “This is the type of entrepreneurial spirit we love in this town and the country,” said Selectman Al DeNapoli. Murphy’s attorney, Edward Valenzola of Mansfield, said his client certainly “knows the ins and outs of the business.”

Murphy declined comment on the pending sale, though he briefly described to the board his plans for the storied business and building. As long as the current employees want to stay, the staffing will remain “pretty much the same,” he said. He termed the planned renovations “generally cosmetic.” Some of the darker-colored siding will be removed and replaced, and a portion of the roof will be replaced. “Minor” work may be done to the walls, floors, and ceiling, and he may buy some new furniture.

He agreed with Selectman Chris Timson’s description of the goal being to give the place “a little perked up appearance.” Arthur Cook, a longtime Old Post Road resident who said he’s been going to Red Wing for 50 years, called the place “a family operation.” The Campanarios have always run a clean business, he said. They check IDs and “if you’ve had too much to drink they throw you out.” He hoped that wouldn’t change with the new ownership. Town Administrator Michael Boynton – only half-joking – asked Murphy if there would be any changes in the clam strips. Murphy assured him there would not.

(Note: the diner does not serve clam strips as quoted in the article but whole body clams, LAC)

Red Wing Diner circa 1940’s?, photo courtesy of Red Wing Diner

Lunch Box Diner (Malden, Mass.) Under New Management

I have known for a while that the couple running the Lunch Box Diner, Scott and Kristin Drago were looking to sell the business due to changing demographics, mainly family priorities and such. Business has been great and the Drago’s, with the able assistance of cook David Lane and their loyal waitresses have brought this little Worcester Diner back to being a great stop for breakfast and lunch. Denise and I were regular customers for Sunday morning breakfasts (at least 2 to 3 times a month). The diner located on Route 60 in Malden has seen many people operating it since the 1970’s under such names as Viv’s Diner, Judy’s Diner, Rose’s Lil’ Red Diner, Uncle Lester’s Diner and just prior to the Drago’s it was operated by my friend, John Harmon as Lulu’s.

As of August 4, 2008 the diner is now in the capable hands of Nick Master. If I am not mistaken, he will make a slight name change to Nick’s Lunch Box Diner. The menu will stay fairly close to what Scott and Kristen had with possibly some new additions. Nick is no stranger to food service and is very pleasant and affable and will fit right in with running the diner. Some of the waitstaff will stay on and Kristin will help in the transition for a short time herself. We wish good luck to Nick and his crew in keeping this little diner going as well as Scott and Kristin in their future endeavors.